ANOTHER prop question

[Esquire]

While the boat is up for the winter I have decided to send the props in for scanning. The shop wants to know what material they are made of, the diameter and the pitch of the props. The props are original equipment for a year 2000 360 Convertible with 8.2 gas engines, hull number LHRJC149D900, can anybody answer these questions from Luhrs?

[logadmin]

I think we have that info in the office. I will let you know in the AM.

D

[logadmin]

The boat had 24X25 4 blade props made of nibral.

[Esquire]

Thanks for the information

[irishrogue]

is the prop shop asking in order to quote you a price sight unseen? or is it because they cannot tell this information???

normally prop shops only want to know the diameter and # blades to quote a price for scanning and bringing back to tolerances assuming that no blades is too far out.

please be sure to go to a reputable shop that employs propscan technology. there is no substitute....FYI, nearly every good shop will scan for free and then quote you a price to bring back in tolerance...if you are close to a shop this might be a better way to go as you can bargain a bit if the props are in good shape....if they are way out, you may want to get a price up front and try to keep them to the orig quoted price.

im pretty sure every shop does this, but make sure that they polish the prop too. and no bottom paint....sure sign of a prop shop that doesnt know what they are doing is to paint the hub to make it look nice....

[witeagle]

I just had both my props done for 325 each - for a 32 open. And this was after tapping a log.

[Esquire]

It was my impression they wanted this information so they could give me an approximate price if work had to be done, (which is what I asked for) The shop did say that they have no charge to scan but only if work had to be done.

[irishrogue]

I just had both my props done for 325 each - for a 32 open. And this was after tapping a log.

ray at atlantis?

[Artcruise]

I have a 200 36 Luhrs convertible that I purchased used and it had 24 X 30 Niral props. I just had them reconditoned and dynamically balanced if Ft Lauderdale. It cost me $385 each.

While I had the boat out I had the yard put on Pettit Prop-Kote. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Art

[flbluerunner]

I have been using Propspeed with amazing success. No barnacles at all. The biggest problem is that it is expensive and needs to be redone yearly.
I sure would like to know how your product holds up.

John :patriot:

[Artcruise]

I looked at Prop Speed but had concerns over the timing issues with the preparation and application. Prop-Kote is a one part with a clear primer and clear top coat. When it is done, it is clear and feels kind of rubbery. Since I am in South Florida, I am willing to try anything to keep my props from fouling. The Prop-Kote cost me $274 for a quart kit. Enough to do shafts, rudders, abd props.

I will let you know how it works.

Art

[Esquire]

Holy smoke... the prop shop called me, said props need alot of work to the tune of 885 dollars A PIECE!... that is way more than any price mentioned here.

[irishrogue]

i would run from that shop....that quote seems ridiculous unless your props were so far out from spec...but even then, it seems high....scanning is free so take them to someone else for a quote. did they show you the print out on your props so you can see how far out of spec they are??? again, if they didnt show you this, find a new shop.

[irishrogue]

john,

what size kit are you using? props only? or rudders and struts too??

i m going to do all 3. maybe shafts too...

getaprop.com seems to have good prices.

[flbluerunner]

I use the 1/2 liter to do my dual props on each side and have a lot left over.
I have the IPS drive which are also done and need 1 liter to do them and the props. I still waste a lot.
The drives look like they will last 2 to 3 years, the props are yearly.
The hardest thing is stripping the props each year.
I am amazed that even in the Keys hot water I don't get any barnacles.
I am using Sea Hawk Biocop TF and am very pleased with the paint, looks like it will hold up 2 to 3 years with a little touch up at my annual haul.
I like many stripped my haul and did 2 coats of barrier then 3 coats of paint, much better then what was on the boat originally.

[irishrogue]

john

thanks. i ll do the 1 liter to do props, struts and rudders - that should about equal IPS + props....dont want to waste money.

we got new props which are polished and ready for propspeed. i need to figure out the right way to polish the rudders and struts before painting....i cant pull them off and take them to the prop shop for polishing....

i have heard good thing about seawhawk...we are stripping our bottom in order to barrier coat and paint. the problem i have is finding a barrier coat that is compatible with micron vc offshore - a vinyl paint....the so-called carolina coat system is great and is really low drag...not sure if it would do as well in warmer waters though or year round...we are 4 months in NJ summer....

[flbluerunner]

Use a grinder with a heavy fiberglass stripping pad on the struts and other metal.
My Sea Hawk guy is Brad Kleinsasser 954-931-0415. He has been very helpful.

John

[irishrogue]

john,

like the brown Roloc pads used to strip paint and rust? or something closer to the green scotchbrite pads?

[irishrogue]

john

is brad at seahawk? do you order direct? i m going to order the tuff stuff primer/barrier. i cant stomach 5 coats of interlux 2000

[flbluerunner]

Brad is sales for Sea Hawk.
Use the brown heavier pads.